Here is a little Faroese tale for you - About 500 years ago, there was a little village called Skard on one of the northern most islands - Kunoy. The village consisted only of six houses, with one man in each house. Like most villages in the Faroes back then, the women and children depended on the men to go out to the ocean and bring back fish to survive. About 100 years ago, the six men went out and never came back. So, the women and children had no choice but to abandon their village and move to a different part of the islands.
Because Skard is so difficult to get to, not many people go there. However on Wednesday, a group of about 450 people decided to make the 10km trek out to Skard for a memorial and to enjoy the absolutely incredible landscapes. I was fortunate enough to be one of these people! Bergtóra's mother, her husband, Karin, Beinta and I all went together. 1km into the hike, we lost Bergtóra's mother and her husband, so it was just the three of us walking. Because it rains so often in the Faroes, the water flows down the side of the mountains creating streams that run into the ocean. We had to cross many of them - Mom, thank you for forcing me to bring my hiking boots. My backpacking skills came in handy. It became quite the endeavor, but it was well worth it at the end! The landscape was so amazing, I had to slap myself across the face to make sure it wasn't a dream. I still can't believe it. All that was left of the village were stone foundations embedded into the side of the mountain. There was some sort of memorial ceremony. I could barley understand what was going on, but there were some things I was certain of. Everyone there was proud to be Faroese. The joy in everyone's voices was astounding as they sang Faroese folk songs in honor of the six fisherman that were lost at see one hundred years ago. It was quite the experience!
While at Skard, the five of us ate lunch on the mountain as we watched the memorial. Bergtóra's mother had a traditional Faroese food called "skerpikjøt" - dried mutton on homemade bread. After we had finished eating, she pulled out wet wipes for each of us. As well as Beinta and Karin, I couldn't stop laughing and smiling - my grandma does the exact same thing. It gave me a sense of familiarity that made my day.
On our way back from Skard, we took a boat. Getting down to the ocean to board the boat was quite the adventure! Picture this: 450 people waiting to scale down a cliff to the ocean using a rope. It was difficult for some, but the way everyone helped each other was beautiful. Soon enough, we were safely on the boat.
Hiking across with mountain with Karin (left) and Beinta (right).
Tons of people gathered at Skard!
The classic picture with the home country flag.
- Kind of cool that this flag has now been at opposite ends of the world - Thanks, Avery -
Sitting on the side of a mountain eating skerpikjøt. It doesn't get more Faroese than that.
A hearty group of people making their way to the boats!
Beinta (middle), Karin (right) and I on the boat.
It was a day filled with adventure and culture, and one I will not soon forget. I was so fortunate to be able to go to Skard, and I may never make it back to that beautiful place.
Tú alfagra land mítt!
Katie
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